Petroleum
Oil & grease
Parking stalls, drive-thrus, loading docks, fuel islands, garage floors and driveways. Fresh spills and years-old stains, with the old ones lightened by degrees rather than promised away.
Concrete, asphalt, interlock & stone
Oil & rust stain removal
Pressure alone pushes a stain deeper. Getting it out takes heat, dwell time and the detergent made for that stain, then recovering what comes off instead of washing it into the drain.
How it works
A stain is chemistry. So is removing it.
Oil, grease and hydraulic fluid soak into concrete and asphalt and bond with the surface. Rust stains are different again: dissolved iron from irrigation water, fertilizer, metal furniture or rebar that oxidizes in the pores of stone, interlock and concrete. Neither comes out with water pressure. Pressure on its own spreads the stain and drives it deeper.
We match the detergent to the stain from the forty-three we keep on the truck: degreasers that break down petroleum, and rust-specific chemistry that dissolves iron oxide without etching the surface. The product gets time to work, hot water and agitation lift it, and the waste water is recovered through our filtration system rather than running to the storm drain with the oil in it.
We test a discreet area first, show you the result and quote the whole surface the same way, so there are no surprises on a surface that’s meant to be seen.
Pressure spreads a stain. Chemistry removes it.
What comes out
Stains we see every week.
Iron
Rust
Sprinkler and irrigation staining on stone and concrete, fertilizer burns on walkways, rust bleed from railings, planters and furniture, and the orange trail under a dripping unit.
Fleet
Hydraulic fluid & diesel
Fleet yards, equipment pads and the spot where the same truck parks every night. Scheduled washes keep the drips from becoming the stain.
Surfaces
Where it works.
Concrete & asphalt
- Poured and precast concrete
- Exposed aggregate
- Asphalt lots and driveways
- Parking structures
- Garage and warehouse floors
- Loading docks
Stone & interlock
- Interlocking stone and pavers
- Flagstone and natural stone
- Limestone and sandstone
- Brick and masonry
- Patios and walkways
- Pool decks
Afterwards
- Sealing and protective coatings
- Scheduled maintenance washes
- Drain flushing
- Full lot and drive lane cleaning
- Documentation for your file
- Waste water recovered on every job
On camera
Oil & rust stain removal, filmed on site.
Questions
Before you book.
Straight answers. If yours isn’t here, call 905-208-4308.
Can you get old oil stains out of concrete?
Usually most of it, and often all of it. Oil that has sat for years has soaked deep into the pores, so an old stain lightens in stages: degreaser, dwell time, hot water, repeat. We’ll tell you after the test patch how far it will go rather than promise a result we can’t see yet.
Will the chemicals damage my interlock, plants or the drain?
The detergent is chosen for the surface as much as the stain, and rust removers in particular are picked so they don’t etch stone or concrete. Plants nearby are wetted down and protected, and the waste water is recovered and filtered rather than left to run across the lawn or into the storm drain.
Where do rust stains come from?
Most often from water: irrigation and sprinklers drawing iron from well water or pipes, fertilizer sitting on wet concrete, and metal that rusts in contact with the surface, such as railings, planters, furniture legs and rebar close to the face of the concrete. Removing the stain is the easy part. We’ll point out the source so it doesn’t come back.
How soon can we use the surface?
As soon as it’s dry. There’s no curing time, and if you want the surface sealed to make the next stain easier to lift, we can do that on the same visit when the weather allows.
Other services
Where else we work.
Request service
Send a photo of the stain.
A picture and the address are usually enough for a quote. A member of our team will be in touch right away.